Rome is a city in which everyone can feel part of a single whole: one for all of history, one culture, one world. The tangible symbol of such unity is the Spanish Steps, a path of 138 steps between time and Eternity, where everyone is equal, regardless of what level they are on. In the XVIII century, it became a good sign of reconciliation between two empires, which were at war for more than one century. In the XX century, thanks to the ingenious film "Roman Vacations", it is a sign of equality between people of any social and property status. Such a Spanish staircase remains to this day.
The long road to the Spanish Steps: historical context
At the end of the 15th century, a ghostly calm reigned in Europe, more like a calm before a storm. In England, the War of the Roses was rejected, the Turks and Venetians concluded a truce, in 1480 the first permanent embassy in the world appeared in the Papal Region. It was the embassy of Spain.
The storm was not long in coming. In 1494, the First Italian War broke out, during which the French king Charles VIII, using his phantom rights to the Kingdom of Naples, defeated the Florentine Republic along the way and entered Rome, where he concluded a certain kind of treaty with Pope Alexander VI Borgia. Of course, not for free, given the claims of the Pope in general and this Pope in particular.
In the early morning there are not as many people on the Spanish Steps as in the middle of the day
According to the agreement, the Papal Region was not supposed to impede the advance of French troops along the Apennine Peninsula and, moreover, was to become one of the bases for attacking neighboring states. The bribe was framed beautifully: the French bought a plot on the top of the Pincho hill for the construction of the Vatican temple and gave the Navarre princess for Borgia’s illegitimate son.
As soon as Naples fell, the balance of power on the peninsula was destroyed. The Spaniards were still neutral: prudent French managed to conclude an agreement with them in Barcelona, and the new overseas colonies required large material costs.
But the first war was soon followed by the second, which had a long quarrel between the two powers: the new French king Louis XII and the Spanish monarch Ferdinand II did not divide the spoils and spheres of influence in Naples. The confrontation between the two empires dragged on for 2 centuries, despite numerous dynastic marriages and a joint struggle with the Protestants.
The long road to the Spanish Steps: half a century to think
In 1620, Spain acquired a palace for its embassy in the Papal States. To build the building, the Spaniards bought a piece of land from one of the slopes of Pincho Hill. Everyone who was on the territory of the embassy was protected by the crown. There was a minus. According to legend, the young men who accidentally wandered into the area, the Spaniards forcefully took into the soldiers.
Meanwhile, one of the most beautiful Roman churches - Santa Trinita dei Monti (Holy Trinity on the hill, 1502-1587) has been towering on the Pincho Hill, over the building of the Spanish Embassy on Plaza Spain. The French, on the land of the French, on the money of the French and in honor of the French victory over Naples.
Church of Santa Trinita dei Monti still belongs to France
In 1660, France and Spain entered into another dynastic marriage between Louis XIV and the Infanta Maria Theresa. In honor of such a momentous event that could lead to reconciliation, the French envoy to the Papal region, Etienne Geffier, bequeathed most of his fortune to the construction of a staircase between the Spanish Square and the church of Santa Trinita dei Monti.
At that time, it was really possible to build anything of these 20 thousand scudos, and even more so a new staircase instead of an unreliable wooden one. Bernini himself was involved in the work on the project, and Spanish Steps in Rome could have appeared half a century earlier.
But she didn’t appear, as Cardinal Mazarini himself became interested in the plans for its construction. By his order, the equestrian statue of Louis XIV was to crown the staircase. Not a single Pope could have done such a thing, bribes would not have helped either: the thing smelled like another war between France and Spain, and even in Rome. Pope Alexander VII put the project on the table, but relations between the Vatican and France deteriorated anyway.
Piazza di Spagna in Rome
France fought with Spain in the 17th century more than once. The marriage of Louis allowed him to claim the Spanish lands, especially since the dowry for the infant was never paid. The two-century confrontation ended only in 1714.
Following the results of the War of the Spanish Succession, France managed to raise one of the Bourbons to the throne. On this occasion, the project, which was supposed to be built Spanish Steps in Romeagain became relevant. In 1717, the competition was won by architect Francesco de Sanctis, who updated Bernini's sketches. However, construction was again delayed. Because of the claims of the new Spanish king on the lost lands in Italy and ... France, since the new king, Louis XV was still too young and in poor health.
Fortunately, the war lasted only two years (1718-20). And soon - in the years 1725-27 - in sign of the final reconciliation of the two European powers - it was finally built Spanish Steps. The symbols of the dynastic unity of the two powers in the sculptural design of the stairs were French lilies and papal eagle and crown.
Christmas performances and fashion shows on the Spanish Steps
In the square of Spain there is still an embassy of this country. The church of Santa Trinita dei Monti is still owned by France and is the title church of the French Cardinals.
Instead of horse statues, which went out of fashion with the Great French Revolution of 1789, an Egyptian obelisk from the former gardens of the ancient Roman historian Guy Sallust Crisp was erected in front of the temple at the beginning of the Spanish Steps. The church itself preserves the priceless fresco "Descent from the Cross" by Daniele da Volterra, one of Michelangelo’s students.
By the way, the official name of the Spanish Steps is Scalinata della Trinita dei Monti. That is, the staircase of the Church of the Holy Trinity on the hill. Se la vie ...
How to get to the Spanish Steps
The Spanish Steps in Rome is one of the most visited attractions. They sit on it, admiring the views, singing songs, establish Christmas performances and fashion shows. Often, the Spanish Steps also becomes a kind of amphitheater, where spectators come to watch another concert on the square of Spain that stretches in front of it. Everything can be done here. True, recently it is forbidden to eat on the stairs.
Fans of English culture come here to pay tribute to the outstanding poet John Keats. The house on the right side of the stairs (if you face it) is the house where he ended his days, hopelessly trying to cope with tuberculosis. Now in this building is the museum of Keats and Shelley, another great English romantic poet of the XIX century, who lived and died in Italy for 4 years.
The Barkaccia Fountain was installed in Rome in 1629.
The Barkaccia Fountain, the first fountain in the world whose cup is below ground level, also attracts attention. We already wrote about him here. The fountain itself is small, but surprisingly elegant. Yes, and fresh water spurting from its holes is worth a visit in the forty-degree Roman heat.
According to reviews, the Spanish Steps is the second most popular free Roman attraction after the Trevi Fountain. In the end, if you discard the thoughts of war and peace, climbing up it, you can walk to the Borghese Gallery and the Roman Zoo in a few minutes. So the concentration of crowds of tourists pursuing anyone who finds themselves in the Italian capital is the highest here.
You can get to the Spanish Steps by metro
You can visit it at any time of the day. Early morning Spanish Steps in Rome It is in the shade, but there are not as many people in this area as in the midst of the day.
Of course, the easiest way to get to the Spanish Steps is to settle in a hotel nearby. Moreover, this area is also known as the Roman shopping mecca. So, it’s even possible to combine business with pleasure. So that you have not been looking for accommodation for a long time, you can check the available hotels in the area of the stairs for the desired dates, as well as the prices of their rooms, using this link.
If you decide to settle in another place, then you can even reach the Stairs by public transport. To do this, you need to get to the Plaza Espanya metro station on metro line A from Termini Station.
You can walk to it and along Condotti Street, where the most expensive boutiques of Rome are located, or from the Trevi Fountain, returning to the intersection of five streets and turning onto Via Frpanichesko Crispi. After - go one quarter and turn onto Via Sistina.
There is the Spanish Steps in the mobile application BlogoItaliano “Guide to Rome”, where in addition to it there are more than 200 attractions, shops, interesting restaurants and cafes that can not be avoided on a trip. If you are just planning your trip to Rome, be sure to read more about the application. It works without the Internet and can be very useful when traveling.
Other useful articles:
- Attractions in Rome where you can buy tickets online
- Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museums: Things to Know
- Borghese Gallery: Rome's most coveted and inaccessible museum
- Colosseum in Rome: the largest amphitheater of the Ancient world
- 4 star Rome hotels in the center: TOP 5 BlogoItaliano
Photos by: Dimitris Dranidis, Carlo Montanari, Michel Guilly, Sean MacEntee, Michelle Lee, Paul McCoubrie, David McKelvey.
